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Показаны сообщения с ярлыком AG õppemismaterjalid. Показать все сообщения
четверг, 1 декабря 2011 г.
среда, 29 декабря 2010 г.
Fantastiline!
Pöörake tähelepanu - tüdruk on 12 aastane. Suurepärane koostöö koeraga. Paljud meist saavad sellisest juhtimisest ainult unistama ;) ja teiseks, kui mõnusad rajad on!!!ühest tõkest teiseni on nii palju ruumi - jookse ja jookse!!! Sellistest rajadest ma unistan ka =)
суббота, 13 марта 2010 г.
Stuart Mah's 30 Second Drills - With Video
The crux of the exercise is to take a jump then the tunnel then a different jump and then the tunnel and so on until you've taken all eight jumps. Sounds pretty straightforward, here's an example of one of his obstacle layouts and my first strategy for handling it:
Stuart's Easiest Layout with My Handling Strategy
There are two constraints Stuart adds to this drill that make it really worthwhile:
1.You only have 30 seconds to complete the 8 jumps - this pushes the handler to be efficient. Not just driving the dog over the jumps in extension and creating long looping paths (and possible off courses).
2.If your dog takes an obstacle other than the one you planned you can't stop, you have to modify your plan on the fly to still get all 8 jumps - makes the handler more responsive/resilient to the dog's actions.
Stuart also stipulated that if you try a layout for a second time you shouldn't repeat the same jump sequence. This keeps you and your dog thinking and not just practicing a fixed pattern. In my mind it is the act of executing your overall plan while still reacting to what happens when you are running the sequence that is the key part of this drill.
The concept I liked most about Stuart's drill is it trains what he calls Situational Awareness. In this context that means awareness of the physical location of the obstacles, your overall strategy for completing the sequence, and which obstacles you have yet to complete. I think of it as an important skill in playing agility games like Snooker and Gamblers. Even if you don't play those games it helps you better react to your dog on the course. It could even help you save that "Q" when you temporarily forget where you are going :^)
So I decided to set up some of these courses and I shot some video of our efforts. For the first layout I walked my plan a couple times before running the sequence but I was still able to get all 8 jumps within the 30 second time limit and I was pretty confident of where I needed to go. I didn't feel the pressure I feel when reacting to a Snooker plan gone wrong :^) So then I tried some of his harder jump arrangements where I didn't walk my sequence first; I just stood at the side of the course and visualized my plan. That made me have to "think on my feet" a little bit more and was more challenging.
So we worked some of the sequences over two days and it was a lot of fun. Here are our efforts, warts and all:
Autor on Stuart Mah.
Allikas on agilitinerd.com
Stuart's Easiest Layout with My Handling Strategy
There are two constraints Stuart adds to this drill that make it really worthwhile:
1.You only have 30 seconds to complete the 8 jumps - this pushes the handler to be efficient. Not just driving the dog over the jumps in extension and creating long looping paths (and possible off courses).
2.If your dog takes an obstacle other than the one you planned you can't stop, you have to modify your plan on the fly to still get all 8 jumps - makes the handler more responsive/resilient to the dog's actions.
Stuart also stipulated that if you try a layout for a second time you shouldn't repeat the same jump sequence. This keeps you and your dog thinking and not just practicing a fixed pattern. In my mind it is the act of executing your overall plan while still reacting to what happens when you are running the sequence that is the key part of this drill.
The concept I liked most about Stuart's drill is it trains what he calls Situational Awareness. In this context that means awareness of the physical location of the obstacles, your overall strategy for completing the sequence, and which obstacles you have yet to complete. I think of it as an important skill in playing agility games like Snooker and Gamblers. Even if you don't play those games it helps you better react to your dog on the course. It could even help you save that "Q" when you temporarily forget where you are going :^)
So I decided to set up some of these courses and I shot some video of our efforts. For the first layout I walked my plan a couple times before running the sequence but I was still able to get all 8 jumps within the 30 second time limit and I was pretty confident of where I needed to go. I didn't feel the pressure I feel when reacting to a Snooker plan gone wrong :^) So then I tried some of his harder jump arrangements where I didn't walk my sequence first; I just stood at the side of the course and visualized my plan. That made me have to "think on my feet" a little bit more and was more challenging.
So we worked some of the sequences over two days and it was a lot of fun. Here are our efforts, warts and all:
Autor on Stuart Mah.
Allikas on agilitinerd.com
пятница, 5 марта 2010 г.
Serpentine Handling Techniques
The Serpentine is a common obstacle sequence and there are many ways to handle it. I'll present the most common approaches and I've created a short video demonstrating most of them.
There are basically two broad categories of handling:
1.The handler changes sides on each side of the middle obstacle to assist in turning the dog.
2.The handler stays on one side of the obstacles throughout the sequence.
Two Sided Handling
The "Two Sided" handling approaches use (almost) any combination of two crosses to turn the dog on each side of the middle obstacle. In the diagram below I show how you would apply the three different crosses (Front Cross [FrontCross, LearningFrontCross], Rear Cross [RearCross, LearningRearCross], and Blind Cross) to the same Serpentine sequence. With the Rear Cross you can choose whether you turn the dog on the take off or landing side of the jump so that gives you a fourth approach.
Diagram shows using the same cross before and after the middle obstacle. But there is no reason why you can't use one cross before and a different one after (although choosing a Rear Cross followed by a cross requiring you to be ahead of your dog would be more difficult to execute with a fast dog).
Execution
When executed perfectly the dog's path should be as close to a straight line through the three obstacle as possible. That requires good execution of your crosses and most importantly being in the right place at the right time.
You want to perform each cross as close to the plane of the jumps as possible; the further you move away from the plane the longer and wider your dog will jump and turn after each jump. Ideally you want to leave only the width of your dog between you and the jump. Some handlers think they are helping their dogs see the jumps by crossing further away from the plane of the jumps. But I've found the opposite to be true. By staying tighter to the jumps it gives clearer information to the dog that this jump is where we are going next, there is no need to look elsewhere for our next obstacle. This article on the Handler Line [UsingHandlerLine, HandlerLine] discusses Front Cross location in more detail.
As to where along the plane you perform the cross the usual rules apply: you want to cross between half way and two thirds of the distance to the next jump. Lastly, for the Front and Blind Crosses if you dog has to collect or turn around you, you are too slow, get moving!
Single Sided Handling
Handling a Serpentine from one side of the jumps is often the easiest approach for the handler and can provide the fastest performance too. The diagram below shows three approaches where you start in motion and a third from a start with a Lateral Lead Out or Lead Out Push.
Execution
The primary key to all the Single Sided Serpentine approaches is to have done your One Jump work so your dog understands your cues. The cues you use around the second obstacle are exactly as though you were practicing on a single jump; they are just in sequence now.
I'm not too likely to use the Rear Cross handling myself, as I'd prefer to work to get ahead of my dog for one of the other methods. I also think it gives a slightly wider path for the dog following the second obstacle as you cross behind your dog on the landing side.
For the Reverse Flow Pivot or False Turn and Drop Shoulder the handler has to be ahead of their dog and passing the second obstacle to cue the dog's turn to the second obstacle. I believe the RFP approach would fit within Greg Derrett's system.
For the Lead Out Push the normal rules apply: position yourself where you would Front Cross if you were running the course. Then you run the remaining obstacles keeping just ahead of your dog to push your dog over the second obstacle and then pull your dog back to you over the third obstacle.
Some Example Video
I've video taped Serpentines several times over the years and never got around to editing the video or writing this article. So here is some video I shot a couple months ago with Meeker. Like usual, I took the video all in one session, my execution isn't always the best, and I left out a couple of the handling variations. But I've got the major approaches covered so it should help clarify my descriptions.
Serpentine Sequence
Serpentine describes the dog's path through three or more obstacles when the dog performs obstacles in the sequence in opposite directions. The obstacles are often jumps and are also often arranged in an almost straight line, making the dog perform a series of 180 degree turns between obstacles. Although the spacing, rotation and arrangement of the obstacles can vary significantly. The key feature is the dog's taking each obstacle in the opposite direction from the previous obstacle. The name comes from snake-like shape of the dog's path.
There are basically two broad categories of handling:
1.The handler changes sides on each side of the middle obstacle to assist in turning the dog.
2.The handler stays on one side of the obstacles throughout the sequence.
Two Sided Handling
The "Two Sided" handling approaches use (almost) any combination of two crosses to turn the dog on each side of the middle obstacle. In the diagram below I show how you would apply the three different crosses (Front Cross [FrontCross, LearningFrontCross], Rear Cross [RearCross, LearningRearCross], and Blind Cross) to the same Serpentine sequence. With the Rear Cross you can choose whether you turn the dog on the take off or landing side of the jump so that gives you a fourth approach.
Diagram shows using the same cross before and after the middle obstacle. But there is no reason why you can't use one cross before and a different one after (although choosing a Rear Cross followed by a cross requiring you to be ahead of your dog would be more difficult to execute with a fast dog).
Execution
When executed perfectly the dog's path should be as close to a straight line through the three obstacle as possible. That requires good execution of your crosses and most importantly being in the right place at the right time.
You want to perform each cross as close to the plane of the jumps as possible; the further you move away from the plane the longer and wider your dog will jump and turn after each jump. Ideally you want to leave only the width of your dog between you and the jump. Some handlers think they are helping their dogs see the jumps by crossing further away from the plane of the jumps. But I've found the opposite to be true. By staying tighter to the jumps it gives clearer information to the dog that this jump is where we are going next, there is no need to look elsewhere for our next obstacle. This article on the Handler Line [UsingHandlerLine, HandlerLine] discusses Front Cross location in more detail.
As to where along the plane you perform the cross the usual rules apply: you want to cross between half way and two thirds of the distance to the next jump. Lastly, for the Front and Blind Crosses if you dog has to collect or turn around you, you are too slow, get moving!
Single Sided Handling
Handling a Serpentine from one side of the jumps is often the easiest approach for the handler and can provide the fastest performance too. The diagram below shows three approaches where you start in motion and a third from a start with a Lateral Lead Out or Lead Out Push.
Execution
The primary key to all the Single Sided Serpentine approaches is to have done your One Jump work so your dog understands your cues. The cues you use around the second obstacle are exactly as though you were practicing on a single jump; they are just in sequence now.
I'm not too likely to use the Rear Cross handling myself, as I'd prefer to work to get ahead of my dog for one of the other methods. I also think it gives a slightly wider path for the dog following the second obstacle as you cross behind your dog on the landing side.
For the Reverse Flow Pivot or False Turn and Drop Shoulder the handler has to be ahead of their dog and passing the second obstacle to cue the dog's turn to the second obstacle. I believe the RFP approach would fit within Greg Derrett's system.
For the Lead Out Push the normal rules apply: position yourself where you would Front Cross if you were running the course. Then you run the remaining obstacles keeping just ahead of your dog to push your dog over the second obstacle and then pull your dog back to you over the third obstacle.
Some Example Video
I've video taped Serpentines several times over the years and never got around to editing the video or writing this article. So here is some video I shot a couple months ago with Meeker. Like usual, I took the video all in one session, my execution isn't always the best, and I left out a couple of the handling variations. But I've got the major approaches covered so it should help clarify my descriptions.
Serpentine Sequence
Serpentine describes the dog's path through three or more obstacles when the dog performs obstacles in the sequence in opposite directions. The obstacles are often jumps and are also often arranged in an almost straight line, making the dog perform a series of 180 degree turns between obstacles. Although the spacing, rotation and arrangement of the obstacles can vary significantly. The key feature is the dog's taking each obstacle in the opposite direction from the previous obstacle. The name comes from snake-like shape of the dog's path.
Traditional Threadle Handling
There are three "traditional" methods for handling Threadles. Two of which have the handler perform crosses and the third uses only pushing and pulling. This article presents descriptions, diagrams and video for each approach.
Front Crosses
One common method for handling Threadles is to Front Cross [FrontCross, LearningFrontCross] between the two jumps to turn the dog back toward the front of the second jump. Then Front Cross again to turn the dog back over the second jump. This could also be viewed as Reverse Flow Pivot handling. This is shown in the diagram below:
Front Cross - Front Cross Threadle Handling
I shot some video of Meeker and me giving this handling a whirl. I demonstrated with a three jump Threadle so you could see using this handling both from a static start (i.e. Lead Out) and in motion:
Front Cross - Post Turn and Front Cross - Post Turn - Rear Cross
It is also possible to Front Cross and then Post Turn and Push the dog over the jump while the handler remains on the landing side of the first jump. The handler then reaches back with their inside arm to call the dog back over the jump into the handler. Unlike the other two methods this handling puts the handler on the landing side of the jumps:
Front Cross - Post Turn Threadle Handling
This approach requires handler to really get moving during the Post Turn and get out of the dog's way so the dog can land as they jump in toward the handler. Another permutation would be for the handler to wait after the Post Turn until the dog takes the second jump and then Rear Cross [RearCross, LearningRearCross] on the landing side of the jump (but this puts the handler behind the dog which wouldn't be desirable if there was another Threadle following this one).
Sorry no video for this one, I could only get Meeker through a two jump Threadle with this handling, not the three jump setup I wanted to demonstrate.
Push - Pull - Push Single Sided Handling
Handlers can also Push the dog over the jump and then Pull the dog back between the jumps and Push the dog over the last jump while the handler remains on the take off side of the jumps. This is very similar to Single Sided Serpentine Handling. In this case dropping the arm or shoulder nearest the dog means come in to me between these two jumps. In the Serpentine case it means come in to me after taking the jump. In a tightly spaced sequence this lack of clarity isn't a good thing.
I've found this approach to be difficult because there are so many handler cues that are telling the dog to jump long over the first jump. Shoulders, hips, feet facing forward, and the handler's motion is toward the second jump. The collecting cues are the handler position relative to the first jump and any verbal command given to the dog (i.e. "Step", etc.), lastly the handler usually needs to slow or even stop to get the dog to come between the jumps; due to the forward motion cues. I find that my dogs often land setup to take the second jump from the back side and can't easily make the turn between the jumps.
Push - Pull - Push Threadle Handling
Here is video of a tired Meeker and me giving this handling a whirl:
You'll notice I'm pausing and waiting for Meeker to come between the jumps before moving forward and directing him to the next jump. A more practiced team wouldn't need as much of a pause as we do.
Alternate Handling Approaches
Some handlers/trainers use a verbal "Step" or "Wrap" command as part of their Push - Pull - Push handling to cue their dog to short stride over the first jump and turn back into them before the send to the second jump. This additional verbal cue can help overcome the other forward cues they are giving the dog. Similarly, handlers/trainers who train an Over Come command could exploit that command in a similar way. So a Threadle becomes an "Over Come" followed by a "Go".
An outcome of Linda Mecklenburg's handling system is a very smart and smooth way of handling Threadles I call Single Sided Threadle Handling.
Conclusion
All of these methods can work but they require good handler and dog coordination, practice and, especially with a fast dog or tight jump spacing, excellent timing to be successful. But with practice they have worked well for many agility teams. Give these approaches a try and see what works best for your team.
Front Crosses
One common method for handling Threadles is to Front Cross [FrontCross, LearningFrontCross] between the two jumps to turn the dog back toward the front of the second jump. Then Front Cross again to turn the dog back over the second jump. This could also be viewed as Reverse Flow Pivot handling. This is shown in the diagram below:
Front Cross - Front Cross Threadle Handling
I shot some video of Meeker and me giving this handling a whirl. I demonstrated with a three jump Threadle so you could see using this handling both from a static start (i.e. Lead Out) and in motion:
Front Cross - Post Turn and Front Cross - Post Turn - Rear Cross
It is also possible to Front Cross and then Post Turn and Push the dog over the jump while the handler remains on the landing side of the first jump. The handler then reaches back with their inside arm to call the dog back over the jump into the handler. Unlike the other two methods this handling puts the handler on the landing side of the jumps:
Front Cross - Post Turn Threadle Handling
This approach requires handler to really get moving during the Post Turn and get out of the dog's way so the dog can land as they jump in toward the handler. Another permutation would be for the handler to wait after the Post Turn until the dog takes the second jump and then Rear Cross [RearCross, LearningRearCross] on the landing side of the jump (but this puts the handler behind the dog which wouldn't be desirable if there was another Threadle following this one).
Sorry no video for this one, I could only get Meeker through a two jump Threadle with this handling, not the three jump setup I wanted to demonstrate.
Push - Pull - Push Single Sided Handling
Handlers can also Push the dog over the jump and then Pull the dog back between the jumps and Push the dog over the last jump while the handler remains on the take off side of the jumps. This is very similar to Single Sided Serpentine Handling. In this case dropping the arm or shoulder nearest the dog means come in to me between these two jumps. In the Serpentine case it means come in to me after taking the jump. In a tightly spaced sequence this lack of clarity isn't a good thing.
I've found this approach to be difficult because there are so many handler cues that are telling the dog to jump long over the first jump. Shoulders, hips, feet facing forward, and the handler's motion is toward the second jump. The collecting cues are the handler position relative to the first jump and any verbal command given to the dog (i.e. "Step", etc.), lastly the handler usually needs to slow or even stop to get the dog to come between the jumps; due to the forward motion cues. I find that my dogs often land setup to take the second jump from the back side and can't easily make the turn between the jumps.
Push - Pull - Push Threadle Handling
Here is video of a tired Meeker and me giving this handling a whirl:
You'll notice I'm pausing and waiting for Meeker to come between the jumps before moving forward and directing him to the next jump. A more practiced team wouldn't need as much of a pause as we do.
Alternate Handling Approaches
Some handlers/trainers use a verbal "Step" or "Wrap" command as part of their Push - Pull - Push handling to cue their dog to short stride over the first jump and turn back into them before the send to the second jump. This additional verbal cue can help overcome the other forward cues they are giving the dog. Similarly, handlers/trainers who train an Over Come command could exploit that command in a similar way. So a Threadle becomes an "Over Come" followed by a "Go".
An outcome of Linda Mecklenburg's handling system is a very smart and smooth way of handling Threadles I call Single Sided Threadle Handling.
Conclusion
All of these methods can work but they require good handler and dog coordination, practice and, especially with a fast dog or tight jump spacing, excellent timing to be successful. But with practice they have worked well for many agility teams. Give these approaches a try and see what works best for your team.
четверг, 4 марта 2010 г.
Single Sided Threadle Handling
Jump Wrap
have three possibilities: a Front Cross Jump Wrap, a Post Turn Jump Wrap, and a Lateral Lead Out Jump Wrap (Linda call this a Lead Out Push). See the diagram below for the handler's motion for each of these:
Jump Wrap Handling Options
Well the Front Cross Jump Wrap is just what we would do if we were starting out to use Front Cross [FrontCross, LearningFrontCross] to Front Cross Threadle Handling and the Post Turn [PostTurn, LearningPostTurn] puts us behind our dog (in this case not an optimal place to be - although still "do-able"). Interestingly the Lateral Lead Out allows the handler to stay on the take off side of the first jump and still be ahead of the dog, and what if you did it while moving (so it wasn't a Lead Out)? Sounds like an idea... Of course it fits Linda's notion of cueing the dog so he doesn't know he is even going through a gap; to the dog it is just a Jump Wrap.
Send to The Jump
Assuming we've chosen a Lateral Lead Out to handle the first jump how will we send the dog over the second jump? The handler could Front Cross [FrontCross, LearningFrontCross] and put the dog on the handler's other arm. This has the disadvantage of possibly pushing the dog to the back side of the second jump or, to avoid that possibility, the handler has to pull the dog substantially further forward of the take off side of the second jump. Or the handler could wrap the dog entirely around their body with a Post Turn and then Rear Cross [RearCross, LearningRearCross] on the take off side of the jump; again putting the handler behind the dog. These two options are shown in the diagram below:
Jump Send Handling Options
This is a place where Linda breaks with traditional handling views (for all the right reasons). She just backs up until she can direct her dog over the next jump. "Back up?" you might say, "we've always heard to never back up when handling" and that was my first response.
Here is her reasoning. In Linda's system she would cue a 180 degree wrap and front cross with an outside arm. Additionally, she puts her dog on her arm opposite the jump to bring her dog past without him jumping it. In the Threadle in the diagram she'd use her left arm to cue the first jump (which requires a 180 degree wrap) and leave the dog on that arm to draw him past the plane of the second. There is no reason to change sides. To give the dog direction she must move, which in this case is to just back up in the direction she wants the dog to go (toward the second jump). She then uses that same arm to initiate the cue to the second jump.
If you handle the first jump using the same cues as you would to perform a Lateral Lead Out you can also stay on the take off side of the jumps throughout the Threadle. Your backward motion draws the dog to you as you move to the take off point for the second jump. Your near side arm is then used to cue the second jump.
Putting It All Together
Here is the diagram Linda was kind enough to draw and email to me showing the two steps we just discussed (slightly reformatted to fit online):
In the case where the course continues on the take off side of the second jump (step 3A in the diagram above) Linda keeps using the same arm that cued the Jump Wrap/Lateral Lead Out on the final jump. This signals the dog to wrap the jump and keeps the dog on the handler's left arm. This allows for handling a three jump Threadle (just repeat as for the first two jumps) or for taking the dog toward the bottom of the diagram with a Front Cross.
I was initially confused when Linda called the wrap of the final jump in 3A a Front Cross. Think of it this way: if your dog was on your right hand on the way to the final jump you'd have to Front Cross to put your dog on your left hand after the jump. So even though you are backing up over the final jump you can think of the dog as technically being on your right arm and then after the jump the dog is on your left arm; just as if you did a Front Cross over the jump.
In step 3B in the diagram Linda would turn to her left to face forward on the take off side of the jump as the dog commits to the jump to put the dog on her right arm. You might do this if the course continued to the top or left of the diagram. In Linda's thinking this isn't a side change (cross) because had you been moving forward toward the final jump the dog would have been on your right arm both before and after the jump. When moving backward your dog ends up on your right arm after the jump; the equivalent of not changing sides had you been moving forward.
What Can Go Wrong?
When learning this handling I like to give handlers two "landmarks" to help them (Linda pointed out that these aren't necessary if you are correctly using her handling system).
1.The handler shouldn't be at or past the standard of the second jump when calling the dog over the first jump.
2.The handler should stay on the take off side of the jumps.
If the handler starts at or past the second jump they can't be using their motion to draw the dog to the take off side of the second jump. Only after the dog is committed to the first jump should the handler's motion cue the dog to the front of the second jump and not support a line to the back side of the second jump.
If the handler doesn't get to the take off side of the second jump the dog won't be able to jump it. Now you don't have to remain on the front side of the first jump, your backward motion does draw the dog to you, but I've found it easier to move straight down the front of the jumps rather than drawing the dog backwards along the curved Threadle path.
Handling In Action
I shot video of Meeker and me learning this handling and have posted it below. In these clips he's been learning the game for about 8 months. But we have been working on One Jump Drills throughout that time. So to him the first jump is just like the Lateral Lead Out exercise. In the video we are working a three jump Threadle starting from a lead out and then repeating again to a third jump. That way you can see that this handling can also be used when you are already in motion. I also show both of the endings of the Threadle and show the handler error where I've started the Threadle passed the plane of the second jump.
have three possibilities: a Front Cross Jump Wrap, a Post Turn Jump Wrap, and a Lateral Lead Out Jump Wrap (Linda call this a Lead Out Push). See the diagram below for the handler's motion for each of these:
Jump Wrap Handling Options
Well the Front Cross Jump Wrap is just what we would do if we were starting out to use Front Cross [FrontCross, LearningFrontCross] to Front Cross Threadle Handling and the Post Turn [PostTurn, LearningPostTurn] puts us behind our dog (in this case not an optimal place to be - although still "do-able"). Interestingly the Lateral Lead Out allows the handler to stay on the take off side of the first jump and still be ahead of the dog, and what if you did it while moving (so it wasn't a Lead Out)? Sounds like an idea... Of course it fits Linda's notion of cueing the dog so he doesn't know he is even going through a gap; to the dog it is just a Jump Wrap.
Send to The Jump
Assuming we've chosen a Lateral Lead Out to handle the first jump how will we send the dog over the second jump? The handler could Front Cross [FrontCross, LearningFrontCross] and put the dog on the handler's other arm. This has the disadvantage of possibly pushing the dog to the back side of the second jump or, to avoid that possibility, the handler has to pull the dog substantially further forward of the take off side of the second jump. Or the handler could wrap the dog entirely around their body with a Post Turn and then Rear Cross [RearCross, LearningRearCross] on the take off side of the jump; again putting the handler behind the dog. These two options are shown in the diagram below:
Jump Send Handling Options
This is a place where Linda breaks with traditional handling views (for all the right reasons). She just backs up until she can direct her dog over the next jump. "Back up?" you might say, "we've always heard to never back up when handling" and that was my first response.
Here is her reasoning. In Linda's system she would cue a 180 degree wrap and front cross with an outside arm. Additionally, she puts her dog on her arm opposite the jump to bring her dog past without him jumping it. In the Threadle in the diagram she'd use her left arm to cue the first jump (which requires a 180 degree wrap) and leave the dog on that arm to draw him past the plane of the second. There is no reason to change sides. To give the dog direction she must move, which in this case is to just back up in the direction she wants the dog to go (toward the second jump). She then uses that same arm to initiate the cue to the second jump.
If you handle the first jump using the same cues as you would to perform a Lateral Lead Out you can also stay on the take off side of the jumps throughout the Threadle. Your backward motion draws the dog to you as you move to the take off point for the second jump. Your near side arm is then used to cue the second jump.
Putting It All Together
Here is the diagram Linda was kind enough to draw and email to me showing the two steps we just discussed (slightly reformatted to fit online):
In the case where the course continues on the take off side of the second jump (step 3A in the diagram above) Linda keeps using the same arm that cued the Jump Wrap/Lateral Lead Out on the final jump. This signals the dog to wrap the jump and keeps the dog on the handler's left arm. This allows for handling a three jump Threadle (just repeat as for the first two jumps) or for taking the dog toward the bottom of the diagram with a Front Cross.
I was initially confused when Linda called the wrap of the final jump in 3A a Front Cross. Think of it this way: if your dog was on your right hand on the way to the final jump you'd have to Front Cross to put your dog on your left hand after the jump. So even though you are backing up over the final jump you can think of the dog as technically being on your right arm and then after the jump the dog is on your left arm; just as if you did a Front Cross over the jump.
In step 3B in the diagram Linda would turn to her left to face forward on the take off side of the jump as the dog commits to the jump to put the dog on her right arm. You might do this if the course continued to the top or left of the diagram. In Linda's thinking this isn't a side change (cross) because had you been moving forward toward the final jump the dog would have been on your right arm both before and after the jump. When moving backward your dog ends up on your right arm after the jump; the equivalent of not changing sides had you been moving forward.
What Can Go Wrong?
When learning this handling I like to give handlers two "landmarks" to help them (Linda pointed out that these aren't necessary if you are correctly using her handling system).
1.The handler shouldn't be at or past the standard of the second jump when calling the dog over the first jump.
2.The handler should stay on the take off side of the jumps.
If the handler starts at or past the second jump they can't be using their motion to draw the dog to the take off side of the second jump. Only after the dog is committed to the first jump should the handler's motion cue the dog to the front of the second jump and not support a line to the back side of the second jump.
If the handler doesn't get to the take off side of the second jump the dog won't be able to jump it. Now you don't have to remain on the front side of the first jump, your backward motion does draw the dog to you, but I've found it easier to move straight down the front of the jumps rather than drawing the dog backwards along the curved Threadle path.
Handling In Action
I shot video of Meeker and me learning this handling and have posted it below. In these clips he's been learning the game for about 8 months. But we have been working on One Jump Drills throughout that time. So to him the first jump is just like the Lateral Lead Out exercise. In the video we are working a three jump Threadle starting from a lead out and then repeating again to a third jump. That way you can see that this handling can also be used when you are already in motion. I also show both of the endings of the Threadle and show the handler error where I've started the Threadle passed the plane of the second jump.
среда, 3 марта 2010 г.
One Jump Drills
There are four things you will want to vary in all of these drills:
1.Work with the dog on your left and on your right.
2.Vary the approach angle as widely as possible.
3.Vary the handler and dog distance from the jump.
4.Vary the distance from the handler and the dog.
If you are just starting in agility I'd use a wingless jump initially, you can use a winged jump and then other types of jumps (double, triple, broad) as you and your dog become more proficient. Lastly, don't over do it, you are better off picking a couple of these drills each day and working them for only a few minutes than trying to work through many of them in a single session. You always want to stop on a success and with the dog eager to play some more.
In the diagrams below one or more starting locations are shown to give you an idea of the range of starting locations and how they can affect your handling. However, don't let these locations limit your practice. Practice each drills from as many different dog and handler locations as possible.
Around the Clock
Dog On Left
Dog On Right
I have to give credit to Dana Pike for the name of this drill. The idea is to run with your dog over the jump at all possible approach angles (i.e. at each hour around the clock face) and reward the dog on the landing side of the jump.
Go Jump
Dog on left
Dog on Right
The Go Jump drill is performed with all the same approach angles and from both sides of your dog just like the Around the Clock drill. The difference being you send you dog over the jump and forward after they take the jump. After taking the jump you can throw a toy or Food Tube ahead of your dog to keep their focus moving forward. Or you can send your dog out to a target you place on the other side of the jump (shown by the "X" in the diagram).
Initially I recommend moving forward with your dog toward the jump but lag behind; you want your dog to get used to moving ahead of you over the obstacle. Eventually you should be able to send your dog over the jump from a stationary position. I believe it was Bud Houston who I first heard state that you should be able to send your dog over a jump the length of your backyard away from you from a standing start. It just takes practice.
Out Jump
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
This drill is almost the same as the Go Jump drill except you are no longer facing the jump. You are sending your dog horizontally away from you to take the jump. Use the arm closest to the dog to signal (Push) it over the jump. In the diagrams above I'm only showing one orientation but try this drill varying distance, side, and approach angle. The "X" shows the location of a target or a thrown toy.
Come Jump
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
This drill is the opposite of the Go Jump drill. You place your dog on the opposite side of the jump and call your dog over the jump to you. You can work this drill as though you are doing a Lead Out with your dog left in a sit, down, or stand stay and you can just leave your dog standing in an informal wait and then call your dog. Again vary the dog's approach angles and to which of your sides you want the dog to come.
Over-Come
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The Over-Come drill involves sending the dog away from you to the jump and having the dog wrap around the jump and come back to you. Again you want to vary the dog's approach angles, the side of your body and the distance from the jump.
Around
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The Around drill involves you pushing your dog to the opposite side of the jump and jumping toward you. If you are just starting out on this drill start close to the jump, facing the standard and with your dog almost on the backside of the jump. You want to start with an easy push to send your dog around the jump. Then start moving away from the jump toward the green path shown in the above left diagram.
Post Turn On Take Off Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The Post Turn [PostTurn, LearningPostTurn] drill on the take off is a basic handling maneuver and can be a test of handler versus obstacle focus. You might not need to perform the extreme rotations shown in the diagrams right in front of a jump in an actual course but a 90 or 180 degree Post Turn is very common. So in addition to all the other permutations of distance, side, and angle you should change the amount of the rotation you take the dog through before taking the jump, you should also vary the location of the Post Turn before.
Post Turn On Landing Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
For this drill the handler should try two different handlings. First starting with their dog and accompany the dog over the jump. The second handling is to Lead Out to the opposite side of the jump and call the dog over the jump.
Post Turn Jump Wrap
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The key to using a Post Turn to wrap your dog around the jump is to initiate the Post Turn by stepping back so your body moves in front of the jump, leaving a path for the dog to come along the side of the jump. Turning so that your body stays at the far jump standard causes a wider turn than stepping back when performing the Post Turn.
Front Cross On Take Off Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The FX shows the approximate location of the Front Cross but obviously it would need to be moved based on the handler's path approaching the jump (you can't run through or over the jump). Depending on your dog you are also likely to need a Lead Out to be able to get to the Front Cross location before your dog.
You also need to give yourself and your dog enough room to complete the cross without surprising your dog with the jump.
Front Cross On Landing Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
For this drill imagine you are going to a second jump somewhere on the landing side of the jump and you need to change your dog's lead before that second jump.
The FX shows the approximate location of the Front Cross but obviously it would need to be moved based on the handler's path approaching the jump (you can't run through or over the jump). Depending on your dog you are also likely to need a Lead Out to be able to get to the Front Cross location before your dog.
Front Cross Jump Wrap
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
In the diagrams above the end position for all starting locations is the same and shown by the black dog and black handler. Unlike the Post Turn Jump Wrap the Front Cross causes the handler to be on the opposite side of the dog after the wrap.
Rear Cross On Take Off Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The RX shows the approximate location of the Rear Cross [RearCross, LearningRearCross] but obviously it would need to be moved based on the handler's path approaching the jump. Unlike the Front Cross on Take Off Side for the Rear Cross you need to draw your dog ahead of you. For both the Front and Rear cross on take off drills the intent is to initiate the Lead change before the jump.
Rear Cross On Landing Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
Just like for the Front Cross On Landing Side, imagine you are going to a second jump somewhere on the landing side of the jump and you need to change your dog's lead before that jump. Make sure you set your dog up so your path takes you straight past the jump, if you have to move sideways suddenly you'll change your dog's path too (and/or drop the jump bar).
However, unlike the Front Cross drill you will need to let your dog get ahead of you in order to Rear Cross. This drill is especially helpful for dogs that don't send away from the handler. When the dog is landing from the jump it can't help but move forward at least enough to land; it might even take an additional stride. During the landing and that stride the handler can step in behind the dog to complete the cross (the body language and/or arm signal initiating the cross occurs before the jump). The blue and green paths show how that can be done.
The brown path shows a Rear Cross on the landing side where the cross occurs after the jump where the handler doesn't have the opportunity to step behind the dog while it is still in the landing part of the jump. So as you adjust your approach angle toward the brown path this becomes a different kind of challenge. Some trainers/handlers call this type of Rear Cross a Cross On The Flat.
Blind Cross On Take Off Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The Blind Cross on the take off side requires the handler to be ahead of the dog just like when performing a Front Cross On the Take Off Side. Remember to give a clear signal to your dog for the side on which you expect them after the cross. You may need to give yourself more room than I show in the diagrams.
Blind Cross On Landing Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The Blind Cross on the Landing Side of the jump requires the handler to get substantially ahead of their dog. For all but the fastest handlers and slowest dogs a Lead Out will be required to get in position for the cross. As for the other diagrams the BX location would move as you change the dog's approach to the jump.
Reverse Flow Pivot On Take Off Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
Just like the Blind Cross you need some space before the jump to be able to perform a Reverse Flow Pivot. In the diagrams above my thinking was to have the handler complete the second Front Cross of the RFP so their path takes them just past the jump standard. Of course you can play with the approaches and make the RFP as dramatic or as subtle as necessary.
Reverse Flow Pivot On Landing Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
Just like the other handling maneuvers that require getting ahead of your dog, the Reverse Flow Pivot on the landing of the jump requires the handler to be ahead of the dog. For this maneuver I'd Lead Out to the landing side of the jump and work the RFP once the dog lands.
Lateral Lead Out
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The Lateral Lead Out is basically the Come Jump drill with the handler offset from the dog's path. So you set your dog up facing the jump (at various angles) and you are off set to the side of the jump. The further your are from directly inline with the jump the more difficult this is for your dog. In the diagrams there are two handlers of each color indicating ranges of locations where the handler might stand for each dog location. Of course you should vary all the other parameters I mentioned in the introduction too.
Lead Out Pivot
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The Lead Out Pivot drill is basically the same as the Lateral Lead Out drill and the Front Cross on the Landing Side drill. You lead out to the landing side of the jump facing the same direction as the dog and as the dog is committing to the jump you initiate the Front Cross/Pivot so the dog lands anticipating the turn. The location of the Pivot is where the Front Cross would be if you hadn't started out in a stationary position. For this drill you want to imagine there is a second jump at 90 degrees to the dog's path and you want to use a Front Cross to turn your dog to that jump.
Front Cross On Take Off Side to Front Cross Jump Wrap
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
This combination of handlings is fairly common. For example, you might use it at the end of a Serpentine [Serpentine, SerpentineHandling] where there is an obstacle discrimination following the final jump. As for all Front Crosses you'll need to start out this drill ahead of your dog. Since the dog and handler end up in the same place at the end I show the final handler position in black.
Front Cross On Take Off Side to Post Turn Jump Wrap
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
Just like above, start out ahead of your dog to initiate the Front Cross. Then step back behind the jump when performing the Post Turn to indicate a tight wrap around the jump standard. Since the dog and handler end up in the same place at the end I show the final handler position in black.
Rear Cross On Take Off Side to Front Cross Jump Wrap
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
In my experience this combination of handler maneuvers isn't as common as the Front Cross to Front Cross but it is worthwhile to practice. As for the Rear Cross On Take Off Side drill you need to draw your dog ahead and initiate the dog's lead change before the jump.
I find this to be one of the most difficult combinations. The reason being, you go from behind your dog when performing the Rear Cross to ahead of your dog to perform the Front Cross. Also working against the handler is the handler continuing in a parallel path to the dog after the Rear Cross, so the dog is getting a physical cue to continue moving forward, instead of getting a cue to wrap the jump. If you've trained a verbal jump wrap command you could get the dog to turn toward you on landing and then complete the wrap with the Front Cross. Let me know how you do on this one!
Rear Cross On Take Off Side to Post Turn Jump Wrap
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
Just like the preceding drill this is another difficult combination. At least for the Post Turn you can stay behind the dog after the Rear Cross so you aren't racing the dog like you would be to get into position for a Front Cross.
1.Work with the dog on your left and on your right.
2.Vary the approach angle as widely as possible.
3.Vary the handler and dog distance from the jump.
4.Vary the distance from the handler and the dog.
If you are just starting in agility I'd use a wingless jump initially, you can use a winged jump and then other types of jumps (double, triple, broad) as you and your dog become more proficient. Lastly, don't over do it, you are better off picking a couple of these drills each day and working them for only a few minutes than trying to work through many of them in a single session. You always want to stop on a success and with the dog eager to play some more.
In the diagrams below one or more starting locations are shown to give you an idea of the range of starting locations and how they can affect your handling. However, don't let these locations limit your practice. Practice each drills from as many different dog and handler locations as possible.
Around the Clock
Dog On Left
Dog On Right
I have to give credit to Dana Pike for the name of this drill. The idea is to run with your dog over the jump at all possible approach angles (i.e. at each hour around the clock face) and reward the dog on the landing side of the jump.
Go Jump
Dog on left
Dog on Right
The Go Jump drill is performed with all the same approach angles and from both sides of your dog just like the Around the Clock drill. The difference being you send you dog over the jump and forward after they take the jump. After taking the jump you can throw a toy or Food Tube ahead of your dog to keep their focus moving forward. Or you can send your dog out to a target you place on the other side of the jump (shown by the "X" in the diagram).
Initially I recommend moving forward with your dog toward the jump but lag behind; you want your dog to get used to moving ahead of you over the obstacle. Eventually you should be able to send your dog over the jump from a stationary position. I believe it was Bud Houston who I first heard state that you should be able to send your dog over a jump the length of your backyard away from you from a standing start. It just takes practice.
Out Jump
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
This drill is almost the same as the Go Jump drill except you are no longer facing the jump. You are sending your dog horizontally away from you to take the jump. Use the arm closest to the dog to signal (Push) it over the jump. In the diagrams above I'm only showing one orientation but try this drill varying distance, side, and approach angle. The "X" shows the location of a target or a thrown toy.
Come Jump
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
This drill is the opposite of the Go Jump drill. You place your dog on the opposite side of the jump and call your dog over the jump to you. You can work this drill as though you are doing a Lead Out with your dog left in a sit, down, or stand stay and you can just leave your dog standing in an informal wait and then call your dog. Again vary the dog's approach angles and to which of your sides you want the dog to come.
Over-Come
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The Over-Come drill involves sending the dog away from you to the jump and having the dog wrap around the jump and come back to you. Again you want to vary the dog's approach angles, the side of your body and the distance from the jump.
Around
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The Around drill involves you pushing your dog to the opposite side of the jump and jumping toward you. If you are just starting out on this drill start close to the jump, facing the standard and with your dog almost on the backside of the jump. You want to start with an easy push to send your dog around the jump. Then start moving away from the jump toward the green path shown in the above left diagram.
Post Turn On Take Off Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The Post Turn [PostTurn, LearningPostTurn] drill on the take off is a basic handling maneuver and can be a test of handler versus obstacle focus. You might not need to perform the extreme rotations shown in the diagrams right in front of a jump in an actual course but a 90 or 180 degree Post Turn is very common. So in addition to all the other permutations of distance, side, and angle you should change the amount of the rotation you take the dog through before taking the jump, you should also vary the location of the Post Turn before.
Post Turn On Landing Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
For this drill the handler should try two different handlings. First starting with their dog and accompany the dog over the jump. The second handling is to Lead Out to the opposite side of the jump and call the dog over the jump.
Post Turn Jump Wrap
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The key to using a Post Turn to wrap your dog around the jump is to initiate the Post Turn by stepping back so your body moves in front of the jump, leaving a path for the dog to come along the side of the jump. Turning so that your body stays at the far jump standard causes a wider turn than stepping back when performing the Post Turn.
Front Cross On Take Off Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The FX shows the approximate location of the Front Cross but obviously it would need to be moved based on the handler's path approaching the jump (you can't run through or over the jump). Depending on your dog you are also likely to need a Lead Out to be able to get to the Front Cross location before your dog.
You also need to give yourself and your dog enough room to complete the cross without surprising your dog with the jump.
Front Cross On Landing Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
For this drill imagine you are going to a second jump somewhere on the landing side of the jump and you need to change your dog's lead before that second jump.
The FX shows the approximate location of the Front Cross but obviously it would need to be moved based on the handler's path approaching the jump (you can't run through or over the jump). Depending on your dog you are also likely to need a Lead Out to be able to get to the Front Cross location before your dog.
Front Cross Jump Wrap
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
In the diagrams above the end position for all starting locations is the same and shown by the black dog and black handler. Unlike the Post Turn Jump Wrap the Front Cross causes the handler to be on the opposite side of the dog after the wrap.
Rear Cross On Take Off Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The RX shows the approximate location of the Rear Cross [RearCross, LearningRearCross] but obviously it would need to be moved based on the handler's path approaching the jump. Unlike the Front Cross on Take Off Side for the Rear Cross you need to draw your dog ahead of you. For both the Front and Rear cross on take off drills the intent is to initiate the Lead change before the jump.
Rear Cross On Landing Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
Just like for the Front Cross On Landing Side, imagine you are going to a second jump somewhere on the landing side of the jump and you need to change your dog's lead before that jump. Make sure you set your dog up so your path takes you straight past the jump, if you have to move sideways suddenly you'll change your dog's path too (and/or drop the jump bar).
However, unlike the Front Cross drill you will need to let your dog get ahead of you in order to Rear Cross. This drill is especially helpful for dogs that don't send away from the handler. When the dog is landing from the jump it can't help but move forward at least enough to land; it might even take an additional stride. During the landing and that stride the handler can step in behind the dog to complete the cross (the body language and/or arm signal initiating the cross occurs before the jump). The blue and green paths show how that can be done.
The brown path shows a Rear Cross on the landing side where the cross occurs after the jump where the handler doesn't have the opportunity to step behind the dog while it is still in the landing part of the jump. So as you adjust your approach angle toward the brown path this becomes a different kind of challenge. Some trainers/handlers call this type of Rear Cross a Cross On The Flat.
Blind Cross On Take Off Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The Blind Cross on the take off side requires the handler to be ahead of the dog just like when performing a Front Cross On the Take Off Side. Remember to give a clear signal to your dog for the side on which you expect them after the cross. You may need to give yourself more room than I show in the diagrams.
Blind Cross On Landing Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The Blind Cross on the Landing Side of the jump requires the handler to get substantially ahead of their dog. For all but the fastest handlers and slowest dogs a Lead Out will be required to get in position for the cross. As for the other diagrams the BX location would move as you change the dog's approach to the jump.
Reverse Flow Pivot On Take Off Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
Just like the Blind Cross you need some space before the jump to be able to perform a Reverse Flow Pivot. In the diagrams above my thinking was to have the handler complete the second Front Cross of the RFP so their path takes them just past the jump standard. Of course you can play with the approaches and make the RFP as dramatic or as subtle as necessary.
Reverse Flow Pivot On Landing Side
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
Just like the other handling maneuvers that require getting ahead of your dog, the Reverse Flow Pivot on the landing of the jump requires the handler to be ahead of the dog. For this maneuver I'd Lead Out to the landing side of the jump and work the RFP once the dog lands.
Lateral Lead Out
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The Lateral Lead Out is basically the Come Jump drill with the handler offset from the dog's path. So you set your dog up facing the jump (at various angles) and you are off set to the side of the jump. The further your are from directly inline with the jump the more difficult this is for your dog. In the diagrams there are two handlers of each color indicating ranges of locations where the handler might stand for each dog location. Of course you should vary all the other parameters I mentioned in the introduction too.
Lead Out Pivot
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
The Lead Out Pivot drill is basically the same as the Lateral Lead Out drill and the Front Cross on the Landing Side drill. You lead out to the landing side of the jump facing the same direction as the dog and as the dog is committing to the jump you initiate the Front Cross/Pivot so the dog lands anticipating the turn. The location of the Pivot is where the Front Cross would be if you hadn't started out in a stationary position. For this drill you want to imagine there is a second jump at 90 degrees to the dog's path and you want to use a Front Cross to turn your dog to that jump.
Front Cross On Take Off Side to Front Cross Jump Wrap
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
This combination of handlings is fairly common. For example, you might use it at the end of a Serpentine [Serpentine, SerpentineHandling] where there is an obstacle discrimination following the final jump. As for all Front Crosses you'll need to start out this drill ahead of your dog. Since the dog and handler end up in the same place at the end I show the final handler position in black.
Front Cross On Take Off Side to Post Turn Jump Wrap
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
Just like above, start out ahead of your dog to initiate the Front Cross. Then step back behind the jump when performing the Post Turn to indicate a tight wrap around the jump standard. Since the dog and handler end up in the same place at the end I show the final handler position in black.
Rear Cross On Take Off Side to Front Cross Jump Wrap
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
In my experience this combination of handler maneuvers isn't as common as the Front Cross to Front Cross but it is worthwhile to practice. As for the Rear Cross On Take Off Side drill you need to draw your dog ahead and initiate the dog's lead change before the jump.
I find this to be one of the most difficult combinations. The reason being, you go from behind your dog when performing the Rear Cross to ahead of your dog to perform the Front Cross. Also working against the handler is the handler continuing in a parallel path to the dog after the Rear Cross, so the dog is getting a physical cue to continue moving forward, instead of getting a cue to wrap the jump. If you've trained a verbal jump wrap command you could get the dog to turn toward you on landing and then complete the wrap with the Front Cross. Let me know how you do on this one!
Rear Cross On Take Off Side to Post Turn Jump Wrap
Dog on Left
Dog on Right
Just like the preceding drill this is another difficult combination. At least for the Post Turn you can stay behind the dog after the Rear Cross so you aren't racing the dog like you would be to get into position for a Front Cross.
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